A quick route to modern and ancient India

Janet Sutter

My Continental flight was literally the first out of the gate. It leaves late at night, with time for some supper and sleep. Arrival is nighttime in India, thus there's a second chance at a good night's sleep. Bingo. Next morning, no jet lag, even after flying halfway around the world. To repeat, no jet lag.

The prize: exploring India, starting with Delhi. There is Old Delhi, with signs and storefronts crowded together, and New Delhi, with broad boulevards and wide lawns.

Traveling around the capital was the ultimate destination for me. Why? The streets. Literally. They're an endless colorful collage: oxen pulling carts, cars, trucks, bicycles and rickshaws. Some of the rickshaws are motorized and have windshields, often decorated with strands of glittery foil (like we use on Christmas trees).

The favored family vehicle is the motor scooter, with the husband driving, the wife behind riding sidesaddle, sari trailing in the breeze, holding on to him and, often, a baby. Add to this the occasional person walking with a huge load on her head. That and the driver of a bicycle rickshaw are tough jobs. I saw one man who looked close to collapse, pulling a heavy load of people. But somehow, he prevailed.

I never considered traffic intriguing until I went to India. There it seems to be an art form. The pattern of driving is erratic to the extreme and there is a cacophony of sound. Drivers absolutely adore honking horns, even without cause. And gas stations are quite grand. So every sightseeing trip is an adventure en route.

SOME DESTINATIONS

Humayun's Tomb: A structure of red sandstone, white marble (especially the dome) and arched entrances, it is the precursor to the Taj Mahal in Agra. This tomb was built for a Mughal emperor by his widow. Mughal refers to a dynasty of Muslim rulers in India.

New Delhi: Impressive government buildings were designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens, begun in 1914 and completed in 1931, after the British moved the capital from Calcutta. The British left in 1947. Nearby India Gate, a monumental arch, is a tribute to the thousands of Indian soldiers who died in World War I. Getting out of the car briefly to admire the vista, as if by magic, a man with two performing monkeys appeared, as did a snake charmer with a very tired-looking snake.

Qutb Minar: An ornate tower built in 1193 to celebrate Islam's victory in India.

Jama Masjid: India's largest mosque; the courtyard can accommodate 25,000 worshippers.

Red Fort: A huge sandstone structure. There is a comparable one in Agra.

My guide and I visited his Sikh temple. With shoes checked at the entrance and a cloth on my head, we walked through a shallow pool of water, then inside where musicians quietly played near the holy book in the center. We circled past people in quiet contemplation, and then went out another door to see a lovely, enormous pool. Some Sikhs, fully dressed, were bathing.

I returned to my hotel, the Taj Mahal. The name was memorable, the room exquisite and every time I stepped outside the door, someone in the hall smiled and asked how they could help me. I was to hear that often in India.

Then it was time to see the Taj Mahal, which meant a day trip to Agra. The journey was as memorable as the destination. The train, the Shatabdi Express, left at 6 a.m. Sitting across the aisle was an elegant Sikh gentleman in a gray pinstriped suit and red turban. India whizzed by outside the windows - green, hazy.

Eventually we arrived in Agra. A car, driver and a guide appeared. I was on my way to the Taj Mahal.

This famous white marble building of exquisite proportions does not stand alone. It can't even be seen at first, for it is part of a complex. One first passes through a red sandstone structure that acts as a gate. Suddenly it is revealed, enhancing the experience.

The Taj Mahal is both a tomb and tribute for Mumtaz Muhal, second wife of Emperor Shah Jahan, who was devastated when she died delivering her 14th child. Thus he began a building project employing 20,000 workers for years (12 to 22, depending on the source). She died in 1631, he in 1666; both are entombed there. Overthrown by a son in 1658, Shah Jahan lived out his days imprisoned in the palatial Red Fort, but he did have a view of the Taj Mahal. The huge sandstone Red Fort is well worth a visit for its abundant carved decorations, ramps for elephants and more.

One approaches the Taj Mahal through gardens intersected with canals and fountains. Closer up, the texture of ornamentation is evident: delicately carved marble, floral inlay in semi-precious stones, columns and domes. The building looks octagonal, balanced by four minarets.

It was a full day, returning late by train, arriving in Delhi well after midnight, having risen at 4 a.m. that morning. But that trip, like every day in India, was a revelation.

So rich in history and culture, the country seems headed from Third World to First World status fast. Full-page ads for "the world's fastest-growing free market democracy" have appeared in The New York Times, along continuing coverage of the country.

Most people I encountered in India were impressively polite, helpful, kind, hardworking and nicely dressed. Both the people and the place seemed to have a spiritual quality. But returning home, the first questions were about poverty. I realized India made me more aware of the poor here. One example: Seeing people dossing down for the night in the Delhi train station reminded me of certain blocks in my city where so many homeless citizens sleep on the sidewalk.

I only had a brief glimpse of exotic India, half a world away. I hope to go back. There's so much more to see, to experience.

IF YOU GO

Flying there: Continental flies direct to Delhi from both Newark and Chicago: www.continental.com.

Staying there: Taj Mahal Hotel in Delhi is an elegant haven; rates from $350. India has many Taj hotels, some in palaces; www.tajhotels.com. Its parent company, The Indian Hotels Co. Ltd., also owns the newly launched Ginger Hotels, rates start at $20, www.gingerhotels.com.

When to go: November to March are usually the cooler months.

Visiting there: I suggest that the first trip to India be a tour. Or hire a car, driver and guide via a hotel or travel agent. Also, a visa is required. Try to stay overnight in Agra to view the Taj Mahal early and late in the day. The Taj View Hotel is welcoming and has a nifty bookshop.

Janet Sutter is a former Copley News Service writer and editor.