The Cherokee people called this place Shaconage, meaning "blue, like smoke," or "place of blue smoke."
Despite the name, they aren't really smoky, but hazy. Such thick vegetation creates moisture, and lots of it, causing the filmy blue haze, or "smoke," that drapes the landscape. The blue hue gives the entire setting a dreamlike quality.
Loggers discovered the area around 1900 and, regrettably, began a 30-year period of destruction. That came to a halt, thank goodness, and the area was set aside to heal. On a happy note, the speed of regeneration surprised even the park's protectors.
When you make your foray into the Smokies, stop at the Sugarlands Visitor Center for maps and orientation. Of the three visitor centers, this is closest to Gatlinburg.
One of the most scenic driving tours in the park is the 11-mile, one-way Loop Road in Cades Cove, a spot blazing with fall colors in October. Just getting there from Sugarlands is a driving challenge. The road snakes along, next to a winding stream. It's slow going, but with this eye-pleasing landscape, you won't want to rush.
Hikers love this park for its many water features and waterfalls. More than 150 trails are maintained, covering 800 miles.
Cades Cove contains historic churches, restored log cabins and an operating gristmill. The structures date from a time when resilient souls chose to live in this isolated place - definitely no quick jaunts to the Mini Mart for a gallon of milk.
Deer, wild turkeys and wildly popular black bears are seen in this area. The secret of Cades Cove is out, so don't expect to be alone on the loop road, no matter what time of year you go.
Bring your binoculars if you plan to conduct a serious bear search. The park has a notable black bear population, numbering around 1,800. The big question: Will you find any wearing a tie and a porkpie hat, reminiscent of a certain cartoon bear?
The main park entrance is on the Tennessee side of the mountains, through the smallish but busy town of Gatlinburg.
The Gatlinburg Sky Lift carries people up the steep hillside, helped along by a gentle breeze. As they progress, the chairs hang directly over a busy street. Sitting suspended over the traffic in a metal seat creates an odd but fun sensation. The kids we saw were especially enthralled with the Sky Lift.
Providing more contrast, the cabins and rentable homes hugging the mountains above Gatlinburg are a quiet forest refuge. You can rent a cabin and find solitude while splitting your travels between the national park and town.
Our A-frame cabin was listed with Mountain Laurel Chalets. It was a world away from the we're-on-vacation intensity of Gatlinburg. We made use of the hot tub on our large deck. While the water bubbled, we immersed our senses in the vivid painted landscape. For me, staring at mountains is just as relaxing as staring at the sea.
It's always amusing to set up house and cook in a totally different kitchen. On the other hand, there's plenty of restaurants within a 15-minute drive.
IF YOU GO
Web sites: www.nps.gov/grsm; www.gatlinburg.com; www.mtnlaurelchalets.com
Kathryn Lemmon is a freelance travel writer.
© Copley News Service
